Wednesday, March 13, 2013

My Liberty of London Tana Lawn Shirts

I bought some Liberty of London Tana Lawn.  This is not a trivial undertaking financially since it costs over $30 per yard.  So, even though I loved the fabric, I chose to only get 1 yard of 3 prints that I thought would go with bottoms I already own and make some simple summer tops out of them.

I decided on using a TNT pattern for two of the shirts the Grainline Studio Scout Woven Tee.  

Image of Scout Woven Tee

I like the simple shape and the breeziness of the top.  I have made it previously in a slightly heavier white cotton with charcoal polka dots and wound up cutting down the sides for a sleeker fit to prevent the top from standing away from my body too much:.  On this previous version, I took out  about 3 inches at the bottom on the sides tapering up to nothing at the bust area.


This time I decided to leave the shirt less fitted and more floaty.  Here is the first Liberty Lawn shirt, a pink, red, green, and gray floral print:




You can see the fit difference on Lynntu.  I cut a straight size 8 this time based on my bust measurement.   The shirt is definitely less fitted and because the lawn is so light and airy it drapes nicely instead of standing straight out like the heavier fabric did.


On the second Liberty Lawn top, I decided to add a placket and buttons down the front.  I added 1 and 3/4 inches from the center front line on the pattern and used this as a simple turned in placket on the front.  So, 1/4 inch is turned under for the clean finish and then 1 inch is turned under to form the placket.  This means that the new center front is 1/2 inch from the old fold line and the buttons and button holes are now sewn on what was the fold line.  The second top is a larger scale, abstract floral in shades of aqua and blue.  I was lucky enough to have the bright blue buttons in my button box.  They are a perfect match!




For the third Liberty Lawn top, I did something different and used the Sewaholic Alma Blouse and combined views A and B.  I liked the collar, but decided to use the cap sleeves since my material was so limited.  
Image of 1204 Alma Blouse

The third fabric was a vibrant pink floral, very feminine so I thought the more detailed and feminine Alma suited it better.



Because the Alma Blouse is designed for the pear shaped woman and I am most definitely not pear shaped, my hips and bust are the same measurement, I wound up having to do some alteration to make it suit my shape better.  I made darts at the waist in the front from just below the point of the bust to the hem.  I took in about 2 inches at the bottom of the shirt tapering to 1 inch at the waist and down to nothing just below the bust.  This got rid of the extra fabric that was hanging and flaring out in a rather unflattering peplum when I first tried it on.  I determine the size of the dart by pinning while I was wearing the top -- rather easy since the adjustment was in the front.  On the next Alma I make I will do this alteration flat before cutting .  Also, I will probably go down at least one size entirely.  I felt as though the upper body could fit better as well.  These are not criticisms of Tasia's pattern, they are the sorts of things you learn when you make a pattern from a new designer for the first time.  You learn about the wearing ease and the proportions of the pattern as they suit you.  You adapt and adjust and learn what to do for each company.  I am still in the learning phase for Sewaholic Patterns.


So, who is that in the background?  My sewing buddy, Palmer, a long haired Siberian Husky.  He hangs out and sleeps while I sew and try things on and do things he generally considers sort of boring.  Here is a better shot of the little guy wide awake and paying attention.


The other adjustment I made to the Alma Blouse was necessary because I didn't have enough fabric to make facings, so I winged it and finished the neckline with bias binding.  This also gives you a better shot of the pattern of the fabric.

I am very happy with my three shirts.  They will be most welcome during the warmer summer months.  Of course, here in Woodinville, that means at least 2 to 3 months or so from now.  Summers do not come early to the Puget Sound area.

2 comments:

  1. All three of your shirts are beautiful. Great job.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I really enjoyed making them.

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